Dashing out of the frying pan and into our hearts, please receber the wacky and charismatic Massive Portuguese Cuttlefish! Or Choco Frigideira, to give him his formal name. The stunning seaside citadel of Setubal is synonymous with choco frito – that’s fried cuttlefish to you and I – and this mesmerising mollusc is the most scrumptious item on the menu.
Choco’s just so much fun and happy to have his photo taken. He’s very affectionate, and really more of a cuddlefish.
Whilst Choco is certainly unique, he’s not one-of-a-kind. There are two versions at either end town, showcasing his monumental range of emotions. The frantic pan-escaper lives on the western fringe of Setubal, near the Arrábida beaches. The seated, paranoid version – Choco Pessoa – is waiting for you a few kilometres east.
Poor ol’ Choco has reason to be afraid, though, because the locals spend the majority of their time guzzling cuttlefish. Honestly, I’m surprised I didn’t see some little Portuguese men trying to lick his paint off.
Both Chocos were created by artista Zé Nova, and inspired by an art installation at Café A Brasileira in Lisbon. That one features a man who, despite being handsome, is not a cuttlefish. So who cares about it?
What about the choco frito, which is available at every restaurant in Setubal? I indulged in this savoury treat numerous time, and thoroughly enjoyed it. Paired with a plate of batata frita, a cheeky glass of Vinho Verde and some sprightly conversation, it makes for a wonderful evening. I did have to lower my eyes each time I walked past Choco, though!
This cuttle may not be subtle, but. Ready, Setubal, go!
